After two and a half years as NPR’s Moscow bureau chief, David Greene travels across the country—a 6,000 mile journey by rail, from Moscow to the Pacific port of Vladivostok—to speak with ordinary Russians about how their lives have changed in the post-Soviet years. Reaching beyond the headline—grabbing protests in Moscow, Green speaks with a group of singing babushkas from Buranovo, a teenager hawking “space rocks” from last spring’s meteor shower in Chelyabinsk, and activists battling for environmental regulation in the pollution—choked town of Baikalsk. Through the stories of fellow travelers, Greene explores the challenges and opportunities facing the new Russia: a nation that boasts open elections and newfound prosperity yet still continues to endure oppression, corruption, and stark inequality.

Set against the wintery landscape of Siberia, Greene’s lively travel narrative offers a glimpse into the soul of twentieth-century Russia: how its people remember their history and look forward to the future.